A bit of cultura oaxaqueña

Now that I am into my second week of la vida mexicana and feel a little more comfortable making my way around town, I would like to share with y’all some cultural phenomena, malas and buenas alike, that I deal with on a regular basis. Let’s begin with the malas.

El tráfico

I am sure that you have heard stories about Mexican driving habits. For example, that the brake pedal down here is actually the horn, or that the rules of the road can be summed up by Darwin’s theory of evolution. Whatever stereotypes you heard, they’re all true. Stop at a red light? Hardy har har. Pedestrians have the right-of-way? Yeah right. Mexicans drivers are always late and always merciless. Even little, old abuelitas have to trot briskly across the asphalt to avoid becoming tomorrow’s front-page feature. Hilary and I are becoming experts at cutting corners and watching each others backs at crosswalks.

El Machismo

Yet another integral and infamous element of Mexican society. I am sorry to have to repeat myself, but whatever stereotypes you heard about this topic, they’re all true. A few guys down here are courteous no matter your gender; all the rest treat girls like a piece of meat. Walking down the street, waiting in line at the supermercado, no public space is off-limits. The most frustrating part of this whole deal is the acquiescence of the local women; most any female will defend the attitude of the men as harmless, just a cultural behavior that’s always been around and shouldn’t be taken seriously. Wow, great. I’m so glad to know that not being viewed or treated as a unique human being is par for the course down here.

And now for the buenas.

El pan dulce

The literal translation of this comida is “sweet bread”, a description which fails to communicate its variety and deliciousness. Panaderías down here are omnipresent, well-stocked, and dirt cheap. If you know anything about my attitude towards bread you know that that, for me, is a fatal combination. What shall I choose this evening? The light, fluffy, cinnamon-and-honey-glazed biscuit, or the more hearty chocolate-topped, maple-flavored scone? (If only my waistline was as cool with this setup as my tastebuds).

Los catedrales

Oaxaca has un millón de cathedrals, each of them unique and impressive. My opinion of the interiors of Latin-American cathedrals has always been poor. I generally find the gilded, baroque walls and waxy shrines to be a bit grotesque, and my visits to Oaxacan cathedrals have, unfortunately, not changed that. The exteriors of these churches, however, are an entirely different matter. Their facades stretch to the sky, their intricate carvings softened by centuries of wind and rain. They each have at least one cupola, often painted in a vivid color. They stand sentinel throughout the city, breaking the skyline with their graceful arches and strong lines. My favorite is the Catedral de Santo Domingo, with its twin domes covered with beautiful blue and white tiles and its expansive plaza. These aged buildings have become for me rather sturdy and comforting landmarks during my downtown excursions.